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 Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:12 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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Ok, before I start, I have done a search. But I can only find information on things I already know.
My locks on the 206 are bouncing again. This happened about a year and a half ago. I took it to a garage to get it sorted and they wanted to charge me too much. So I ended up replacing the solenoid myself. I think it was the drivers door that I did, but it was replaced with a 2nd hand part.
What I would like to find out is, how can I identify which door is causing the fault?
If I disconnect one solenoid at a time would that work? Or would they bounce because one is disconnected?
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Last edited by Mike_XS on Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:14 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3815
Trade Rating: +3
Location: In the garage
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I think that would work. I'd start disconnecting the tailgate connector as it's easiest. Will the doors shut with the connector at the hinges disconnected?
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein B8 Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport GP A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge hoses, Maniflow 4-2-1 304 grade manifold and 2.5" system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 42mm Jenvey Throttle bodies, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, ACT/Longman/Jenvey carbon fibre airbox, Omex 600 ECU. Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, DP Engineering thermostat housing. Very shiny. 2006 VW Jetta 2.0 TDi Sport for everyday use. 2008 207CC 1.6 GT. | |
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:16 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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| Edward wrote: |
| Will the doors shut with the connector at the hinges disconnected? |
I would assume so. I'd only be disconnecting the power.
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 9:25 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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Can anyone confirm that this will work? Or suggest an alternative method?
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 10:28 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1379
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Athens, Greece
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It will indeed work.
When the lock is closed it gives an open-circuit signal to the BSi.
So simply disconecting the connector is a way of checking if that one is at fault.
Use some good quality silicon grease spray before re-fitting a used part like a lock
and you'll get better milage off-it.
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| 1.4i, 2001, TU3JP, 3-door, China Blue | |
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:51 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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| V9977 wrote: |
It will indeed work.
When the lock is closed it gives an open-circuit signal to the BSi.
So simply disconecting the connector is a way of checking if that one is at fault.
Use some good quality silicon grease spray before re-fitting a used part like a lock
and you'll get better milage off-it. |
Thanks 
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:13 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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It didn't work. The locks still bounce no matter which lock is connected.
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:19 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1379
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Athens, Greece
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| Mike_XS wrote: |
| It didn't work. The locks still bounce no matter which lock is connected. |
Checked the boot?
How many doors do you have?
Is your battery flat by any remote chance?
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| 1.4i, 2001, TU3JP, 3-door, China Blue | |
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:21 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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Yup. Checked everything. It's 3 door. Nah battery is fine.
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:31 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1379
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Athens, Greece
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| Mike_XS wrote: |
| Yup. Checked everything. It's 3 door. Nah battery is fine. |
Checked the connectors if there is a debris short between any pins (longshot).
Have you tried resetting the BSi if multiplexed?
Otherwise I'm stumped then..
EDIT: Maybe its to do with the key-barell switch (also attached to the lock mech.) and this method of checking doesn't work.
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| 1.4i, 2001, TU3JP, 3-door, China Blue | |
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:51 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 786
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Southampton
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I've managed to fix the locks!
I opened each door and closed the lock with a screwdriver, found that the drivers side was pretty stiff. Got the WD40 out it, wiggled it about and as if by magic all is again working
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:02 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1379
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Athens, Greece
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| Mike_XS wrote: |
I've managed to fix the locks!
I opened each door and closed the lock with a screwdriver, found that the drivers side was pretty stiff. Got the WD40 out it, wiggled it about and as if by magic all is again working |
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| 1.4i, 2001, TU3JP, 3-door, China Blue | |
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Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:56 pm |
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Joined: Mar 24, 2011
Posts: 1
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Dorset
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I've had this problem for years. was ripped off by the peugeot garage (went when the locks were bouncing and told they couldn't look and to book it in later in the week, then when they ran the tests, it was fine and they charged me £50 for telling me there was nothing wrong!! ggrrr) so never going back there! i've been spraying the locks with wd40 to keep them working but its getting too bad now, i've had one 2nd hand lock and feel i now need to get a new one. is there anywhere online that does new improved after market locks? please don't tellme my only option is to go back to peugeot!!
cheers
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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 12:26 pm |
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Joined: Mar 15, 2010
Posts: 371
Trade Rating: +9
Location: Kent,
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| Mike_XS wrote: |
I've managed to fix the locks!
I opened each door and closed the lock with a screwdriver, found that the drivers side was pretty stiff. Got the WD40 out it, wiggled it about and as if by magic all is again working |
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