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 Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:06 am |
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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Hi everyone
About to change clutch on my gf's 206, is this a reasonable way to do it??
Obviously after stripping all bits off that are in the way, I am thinking release bottom ball joints from struts & remove driveshaft/strut assembly to get access to gearbox. Will I be better off also removing the passenger side bottom arm, or will gearbox come out with it in situ?
Thanks in advance
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| 206 1.1 8v 'W' 2000 - fixed now... RICE PUDDING SKINS BEWARE!!!! | |
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:23 am |
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Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 67
Trade Rating: 0
Location: swansea
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Yeah mate pop both ball joints out and take both drive shafts copletley off makes life easier but make sure drain gearbox oil 1st and poping ball joints back in is a t**t u need a long strong bar. . i changed 1 the other day in 4hours so its not that bad to do and make sure you do cluch plate bolts same amount of turns going aroun and clutch id lined up 
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:28 am |
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Joined: Oct 16, 2011
Posts: 103
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle-under-lyme
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to be honest u have to remove driveshaft only from passanger site u dont have to move anything from driver site u just have to move gearbox away from the engine so u have to move to the right driver site driveshaft ll come off away from the gearbox easy.Remember to put something under the car because oil from the gearbox can make spilage when driveshaft come offf and remember to put something under the engine if u dont want to have him on the floor
Cheers mate have fun:)
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:23 am |
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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Thanks for quick replies - seemed right to me but never done clutch in one of these so wasnt sure...
I know the driveshafts come out easy because I changed the pass side bottom arm a couple of months ago and the damn thing fell out when I was trying to get the balljoint into the strut lol, typical I only got it back in after nearly all the gearbox oil poured out :/
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| 206 1.1 8v 'W' 2000 - fixed now... RICE PUDDING SKINS BEWARE!!!! | |
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:09 am |
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Joined: Oct 16, 2011
Posts: 103
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle-under-lyme
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there's one more importatn thing about clutch u have to mount clutch pads same as a old one because gearbox shaft wont fit if its not in exacly the same possition u have to put something in the hole in the fly wheel then centered clutch its very important if u want to do it without sweat and tears
If u have aony more question just ask
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:42 pm |
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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Thanks again, yeah I know it needs aligned correctly to get the input shaft through the housing & into the plate. Done clutches before (mainly on RWD stuff like Mk1 & 2 Escorts) but never on a 206; most jobs I've done on it have been a mare due to one thing or another & previous owner being bit of a bodger :/
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| 206 1.1 8v 'W' 2000 - fixed now... RICE PUDDING SKINS BEWARE!!!! | |
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:17 pm |
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Joined: Oct 16, 2011
Posts: 103
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle-under-lyme
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in the ford engine its exacly the same thing so have fun mate:)
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:37 pm |
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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At least with the fords you just got the starter & propshaft off & then the box & clutch was a doddle, no driveshafts / suspension / hoses / wiring to strip :/ lol or have i just got my rose tinted glasses on again
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| 206 1.1 8v 'W' 2000 - fixed now... RICE PUDDING SKINS BEWARE!!!! | |
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:23 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 729
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Norfolk
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Just done my 180 clutch, took me 6 hours! It's the 1st time i have ever done one so think i done well.
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Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:01 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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One extra point, if you're going to change the clutch cable, which is not a bad time to do it, then if you are going to fit one of the new type of cables
then you must keep the fitting spacer (yellow and green object) installed on the cable until you have the cable fully fitted at both ends and all bolted up at the bulkhead BEFORE you finally remove the plastic spacer. If you don't then the cable springs will ratchet up the slack and the cable will be pretty much useless after that
The same thing will happen if you have already fitted one of the new type cables, when you disconnect the cable to replace the clutch, if you don't block the clutch lever end of the cable with a spacer or clamp of some kind to prevent it doing so, it will again ratchet up the slack and make the cable unuseable
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