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 Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:23 am |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2012
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N.Ireland
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Hi I am having problems with my 206. Firstly when the car is cold it starts and drives fine for about ten minutes then cuts out and refuses to start. Sometimes it starts and ticks over but then just cuts out when trying to drive off. If left to completly cool down it will drive again til it heats up then cuts out again.
I scanned it and the codes I got are
Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit
Transmission fluid temperature sesnor ''A'' circuit range/performance
Fuel volume regulator control ciruit high
I drove through a slight puddle twenty minutes before this started happening.
2nd problem is the cooling fan isnt kicking in. at tick over the heat slowly rises towards 100 deg but the fan doesnt kick in, I put 12v to the fan and its working
Any help or advice greatly appreciated
Thanks
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Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:03 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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If the IAT sensor is misreading or broken then your car could be over fuelling in a big way which would explain why you are ok start with on cold engine but over rich when warm
IAT is usually integral part of MAP sensor so ideally you'd want to see the output from the IAT to see if it's a circuit problem or whether the IAT is malfunctioning. You could simply take out the MAP sensor and inspect the small bulb looking object which is the thermister providing the ECU with the IAT reading.
See the difference? The left hand MAP has a broken IAT bulb
If it's broken off (quite common as it's quite fragile) then it's new MAP sensor time. If it's not broken then check the circuit to and from the MAP
For your cooling fan then this has been well covered if you use the search
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Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:36 am |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2012
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N.Ireland
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Many thanks for the quick reply, where abouts on the air intake pipe is the sensor mounted and I will check this now.
Mamy thanks for the pic should make it much easier found
Kind regards
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Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:47 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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The above are not pictures of a Peugeot MAP but they are very similar
Here it is on a 1.1 engine
The orange bulb shape is the thermister
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Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:42 am |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2012
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N.Ireland
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Hi many thanks for the pics, its been a great help
I removed the sensor and its still intact and looks fine. Is it worth while replacing the sensor and see if that fixes the cutting out issue or is there anything else I should check first.
Many thanks for taking the time to help
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Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:02 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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If it looks intact then I would check out the voltages at the MAP connector with engine running. You can back probe the connector by inserting a pin or similar and connecting your multimeter to that
From top to bottom it will be
MAP voltage- between 1 to 4.5v depending on rpm/throttle posn
5v ref voltage- steady 5v
IAT - steady voltage between 1v to 4.5v slow and small changes with temperature
earth 0v
A new MAP is around £30 so it's worth checking if there is a circuit problem first. If it was a water ingestion problem at the connector then simply letting it dry out may be all that's required
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Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:21 pm |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2012
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N.Ireland
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Hi, I checked voltage this eveing and all is grand so I assume my next step is to order a new MAP sensor?
THANKS
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:32 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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It depends what you mean by "All is grand"
If supply and ground to the MAP are good and the output voltage from the IAT is correct then there's nothing to suggest it needs changing.
Have you cleared the fault code and does it comes back up again when you start/ drive the car?
Can you list the actual fault code numbers rather than their descriptions. What are you using to scan for fault codes, Peugeot Planet?
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:15 am |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2012
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N.Ireland
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Hi I used sanmaster, the code was P0110 for the IAT. I cleared it and it came straight back. the supply to it was a steady 5V. The supply to the pin 1 was around 1V - 1.5V and under revs it increased to around 2 -3V but fell quickly below the 1.5V with revs still on.
IAT output was steady at 2.8V, outside temp was around 14 deg at time of testing
Thanks
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:18 am |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2012
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N.Ireland
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The other codes I got under pending DTC where
P0711 - Transmission fluid temperature sensor - - - - This wouldnt reset
P0004 - Fuel volume regulator control circuit high - --- -This would reappear everytime the fault happened
Thanks
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 2:25 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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P0004 is a very rare fault code, manufacturer's hardly use that code as far as I know. I wonder is scanmaster is identifying that code correctly?
P0110 is certainly an IAT circuit problem though
You could just change the MAP as they're not expensive and as you've found out, very easy to change but you'll want the ability to tell your ECU to relearn the best settings for the new MAP and you must expect it to be a little off best for a short time whilst it's relearning all over again
My thoughts are that if the MAP is receiving the correct ref voltage of 5v and earth is good and if the IAT part of the MAP is putting out a credible voltage ( which it seems to be doing) then there may be a problem at the ECU connection. It would be worth seeing running data of the IAT before condemning the MAP/IAT sensor as then you'll be viewing what the ECU is seeing and why it's not happy with the IAT
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