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Forums › Tuning, Modification & Legal › Project Cars › Adventures with the HDi 2.0 16v DOHC cylinder head rebuild |
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 Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2024 3:29 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1150
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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The backlog of mate's cars at our workshop is appalling, so I decided to help around as well as learn new tricks, the old me.
From the lot he quickly picked what he thought I might enjoy the most -- an HDi:)
Albeit inside a Galaxy, its 140 BHP still sporting the same DW10 lump as my Pug, difference being the 16v DOHC head, having been co-developed with Ford and lugged around by a large number of vehicles (PSA alone shoving it into 308, 508, and all *07 except 107 and 207).
I know this project thread is not about a 206, yet there are quite a few familiar faces when rummaging around this engine (e.g. fuel filter, EGR valve, crankshaft pulley, timing belt going round only one camshaft, etc) and the forum has mentions of peeps crazy enough to suggest an engine swap:))
So I'll leave the removal of this thread to the admins' discretion:)
Game-plan is to flip this practical 7-seater (mate bought it for £250 as non-runner).
First thing was to spin the crankshaft by harmonic balancer -- all familiar to us (the same sits also on my diesel 206).
It was turning freely, resistance coming and going, meaning compression was there -- always a good sign.
After removing the cam-belt cover, didn't seem it was snapped, but wasn't moving either when turning the crankshaft. Its teeth around the camshaft sprocket were shredded off:
(sorry for blurry cam:)
Camshafts looked ok, yet all exhaust rocker arms were hit, by pistons punching the valves:
To our surprise, combustion chambers were full of oil once I took the head off.
That's super strange, because all oil was decanted during the early days of this build, and it certainly wasn't there during cranking, otherwise the valve surface would be all oily:
A head scratcher this one:) Yet nothing points to any obvious leak.
Out with the valves;
Grew some 'shrooms:
A good wash is in order:
Soaking in diesel, agitate with brush, then lots of engine degreaser and voilà:
Head is ready for skimming, watch this space when that's done.
Big thanks to Jim for mentoring me through this first-ever engine dismantling, it's amazing to finally get my head around of how all different engine parts work together, by having hands on from EGR to valve lifters!..
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Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2024 7:41 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2716
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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Ill keep an eye on this! Mental all that oil on the pistons!
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Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2024 8:12 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1150
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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| Steve206 wrote: |
| Ill keep an eye on this! Mental all that oil on the pistons! |
A true mystery, because surely that oil wouldn't have been there during the moment of manual cranking (would see traces on the valves). I reckon some oil galleries emptied themselves when the head was disturbed.
Also any diesel (mixed with oil) is ruled out by simply sniffing and inability to leak that much through injectors (even when there was some 1.5 months gap between taking the rocker cover off and removing the head itself)
This just landed, the works commence tomorrow!:)
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Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2024 10:58 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1150
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Well, it turns out the head was a banana! Meaning it'd gotten overheated some time in the past and warped, yet they kept driving without any apparent inconveniences.
Hence the importance to always skim the head, however there've been cases where one'd just whack in a new head gasket and forget about it, until all sorts of issues crop up further down the line.
Lapping the valves was one helluva manual task, constantly inSPECting the contact surface for any out-of-SPEC SPECks (I'll see myself out)
Another gotcha that beginners like me would fall for is to overlook the state of valvetrain components. All exhaust rocker arms have been visibly damaged due to pistons hitting the valves when the timing belt packed up (as you can see in the 4th photo of the first post).
All the valves proved to be straight after lapping, good job they look right down in diesel engines (petrols have them at an angle, hence why you end up with most of their hats bent).
In diesels, the impact energy is then absorbed by the rocker arms, and they rip at their shoulders, and that's (hopefully) the only perished part that you'll be replacing.
Careful inspection of the intake rocker arms revealed one with a hairline crack in the metal:
It'd work just fine if placed back, but would fail eventually.
Massive shout-out to "rsengineparts" on fleaBay for conveniently creating a listing of 9 rocker arms for us (all 16 are the same), because otherwise they would only sell them as pack of 8 or 16 (talking about buns and hot-dogs upsell otherwise!)
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 10:10 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2716
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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Well caught on that rocker arm.
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Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2024 2:22 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1150
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Cheers Steve, cracking on 
As luck would have it, only one injector stud was too stubborn to come out in one piece, and who else sells them the cheapest than the original manufacturer of this very engine, PSA:))
Onto re-assembling 'em them valves:
New stem seals from a handy Elring kit (Head Gasket Set Kit for Ford S-MAX I 2.0 06->14 Choice2/2 Diesel Elring sold by Doctor Car Parts for £39.52 <- started cataloguing these fleabay listings, as they often get removed or price changes:) Good reference as I've put quite a bit of time to find parts that wouldn't break the bank.
Re-using old valves, springs, retainers, and lock bits
I did however make my first boo-boo: scored the freshly skimmed head surface 
Lifted it off the stands, and one of them stayed upright, onto which I then accidentally lowered the lump a bit 
Luckily the scratch was the weakest mid-streak, and that's exactly where the head-gasket boundary goes
Still to eliminate any chance of compression leaking out into the coolant gallery, Spray-A-Gasket to the rescue!:))
For the record: Elring Head Gasket for Fiat Ford Citroen Peugeot Volvo Lancia 2.0 2.2 Diesel sold by GXND Limited for £24.69
Painted onto the "troubling" side only.
New ancillaries such as exhaust manifold gasket (part of the head-gasket-less head gasket set listed earlier:))
And new glow plugs that just happened to be lying around (that's how widespread these engines are!) Naturally, a couple of old glow plugs had seized in the head (but not by a thread -- which would be a nightmare drilling out -- yet where their "glowing" tips are, even my mentor had a head-scratcher moment)
Then came the time to prep the engine block surface
Can be quick'n'carefully done with 120grit dual action polisher, the air-tool one (due to limited space to wiggle about), ensuring you wet-sand it using brake cleaner
Ready to receive
Et voilà!
Hydraulic valve lifter tappets (that had to be compressed to squeeze existing oil out of them), 7 old and 9 new rocker arms in place
I too was wondering, how the camera got such a glaring filter on -- turned out a dab of oil on the lens:D
Lots of elbow grease to then Scotch-Brite the valve cover mating surface. Can be sped up with the help of a rotating copper wire brush prior to that fine sanding.
Green sealant is straight from Mercedes-Benz, it cures when heated; I can't wait for the first start! Lots of things to go through still...
New cam chain and tensioners, because it was sold as a set when replacing the cracked top tensioner (happened during engine lock-up?)
The middle indent is by design BTW. 3x Timing Chain Kit for Citroen C5 Ford Focus Peugeot 807 Volvo S40 Fiat TC9700K sold by parts_eu for £35.99
All torqued up in sequence, thanks to this invaluable video, even Autodata didn't have the order, although any spiral-out approach would do fine I reckon.
Tomorrow -- timing belt time (in not-so-tight spaces:) as that will be the moment of truth for my labour thus far (if I meet no résistance when manually turning the crankshaft). For that, there is no need to refit the pumps at the end of the cams nor other ancillaries yet, which I look least forward to anyhow (simply because I might end up with many parts left over, by missing to fit the bits back in :D)
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Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2024 4:59 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1150
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Fitted waterpump (new one comes with paper gasket, been advised to apply thin layer of black silicone sealant for better measure:
Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit 530044930 INA Set 0816G3 0829A3 0829A4 083050 New sold by carpartsinmotion for £65.55
First moment of truth, engine turns over smoothly by hand, phew!
Onto re-assembling all the other ancillaries.
This being such a common engine that we could find brand new parts in the garage left, right, and centre (glow plugs earlier, and an EGR now, saves me from drilling out the snapped off bolt and clean-up!)
Then finally the first-start day arrived. Weirdly, it did not want to spring back to life...
Lots of head scratching as to why it wouldn't happen, the starter would eventually struggle to turn the engine over.
I'll pause this thread with the video for now:) where we ended up in the following vicious circle:
* Try to start the engine
* Spray brake cleaner into the intake
* Engine turns over fine at first
* Starter motor eventually slows down until a point where it can no longer turn the engine over (battery and started proved to be just fine, BTW)
* We switch the ignition off and turn the engine manually via ratchet spanner on the crankshaft, everything turns over fine
* We crank the engine again via starter, it spins freely for a bit, until slows down again
www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdqcWV4YUeg
| Steve206 wrote: |
| Ill keep an eye on this! Mental all that oil on the pistons! |
You might have hit the nail on the head as to what had happened here;)
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