#31: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:46 am ---- The message I was seeing was "BSI unlocked-: no" IIRC, on the same page as the "problems transmitting" one. (also have ECU and BSI matched-: yes etc etc)
From planet, the BSI is indeed talking to the ECU as it did show "ECU unlocked-: yes". Also can/could actuate wipers/dip and main etc from the actuator test in the BSI menu, and in the COM2k menu I could see the input states changing for the wiper and light switches. It is now in eco mode, although wasn't to begin with when the issue arose. It's like it's all talking but the BSI seems to be having a hissy fit.
I will try and find a minute to grab the BSI and ECU info later just in case there's any light could be shed, would also appreciate if with that info they could give me the plug/pin info for the rev counter since (ably assisted by Haynes) I must have pruned that out as "not needed" and having tach input would at least kick it out of eco mode as well as saving bother of chopping the instrument panel up and fitting a Xantia tach behind the face!
Cheers.
Oh in other news, I think we're experiencing a need to grab a set of refurbed injectors sooner than planned. On a couple of occasions we've had the engine start clattering/missing heavily on one cylinder and smoking in a way that screams p**sing injector to my mind. It clears after you give it a couple of good blips but not exactly conducive to fun driving when it happens. also must find time to swap in the lowered GTi beam as it's got a rake like an old muscle car at present!
Will get back with the BSI/ECU particulars when I can, much appreciated.
#32: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 2:31 pm ---- Hmm I'm now curious about the read-outs of these 3 pages:
And BSI parameter measurements (live data) of the camshaft/crankshaft sync, as well as whether there's a correct report the engine RPM.
Tacho data arrives to the BSI via the CAN bus packets, and is then directed to the dash to drive the needle.
No hard promises from the digital-kaos folk, as most of them just suggest a reflash of everything with a dump that they've got at hand, but worth a try:)
#33: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 3:36 pm ---- I'll have a look when I get a chance, but the immo. etc are OK, there won't be crank/cam sync as the 1.1 never had a camshaft sensor but I'm seeing 0rpm whether engine is running or not hence wondering about the wiring from CPS to ECU since it appears the ECU is communicating but it's not getting it's signal from the CPS
(assume the speedo and temp gauge are also driven through the CAN line between ECU/BSI too and they both work until the dash goes to sleep).
Cheers.
#34: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 7:32 pm ---- OK had a quick sanity check earlier to make sure the CPS was still working (it was when I fitted the GTi 'box but you never know!). There's about 380 ohms across the sensor, measured at ECU end and with the engine running my multimeter sees a varying AC voltage around the 5v area so sensor appears good and has continuity to the ECU end.
The only bit I'm unsure (not 100% anyway) is if I've got the thing wired to the right pins. It should be, there was only ever 2 twisted pairs in the ECU harness. Obviously the one on the middle plug is the CAN line and the other one should be the CPS. If that's the case then I have no clue what's going on, although it is possible that the ECU itself is dodgy too (car ran OK when we got it and chucked a BSM in it, but we only ran it a couple of days & the ECU has been opened by someone at some point as it's got blue Hylomar all round the lid...)
To be honest the more I think about it, the more I like the idea of opening up the BSI and modifying the supply to the relay so the dash stays awake & just go with my own tach like I'd originally planned anyway.
If I was to start this project from scratch I think the only thing I'd change is I'd start with a pre-plexed car. It's a good enough system when it's standard or close to, and I love the coding options with PP2K but for this kind of swap it's a royal b***h! (also using a pre-plex DW8 car as a base would mean simpler times at the MoT station). All good fun though and the shell is nice and shiny!
#35: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 9:10 am ---- A couple of internetz places suggest to re-program/re-learn the key transponder chip.
Virginising BSI would be the last resort. I told you those guys just want to reflash everything:))
If I remember correctly, there is also a PP2000 option to "Reinitialise BSI configuration", or something along those lines, but I never tried to use it. Would that also mean that one has to write down all cfg settings prior as a backup?
#36: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 11:13 am ---- Yeah I thought that, resync'd the key and remote locking works but don't think we have the code to reprogram it.
I suppose reinitialising the BSI could work, but think we'd need the key code for that too probably? In all honesty I'll probably just rip the thing apart and feed the dash and heater blower relays with an IGN permanent live since that's the only bits we really *need* for the car to be reasonably driveable now.
We'll get there in the end either way.
#37: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 12:41 pm ---- I wish I had seen this video on how to obtain the BSI PIN etc before I dished out £24 to the stealer:) www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXoUz-ejRtI
I reckon that carprog bit of kit would've paid off by now..
So throwing this in in case you'd reconsider or someone else reading this thread.
#38: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 10:03 pm ---- Cool, I may have another route to try since we've made the decision now to break the '06 1.4 Verve so might pilfer the BSI/clocks/ECU etc out of that and see if it behaves any differently.
For now, I'm happy to just go about the no-plex rewiring. Got the reversing lights back today (and added an LED reversing floodlight to help with the tinted windows at night situation!), added a boost gauge that works and turned the wick up a little. Got rid of the single-line MFD as the bulbs were all gone and it only cried ECO anyway so useless as a clock. Boost gauge and eventually oil pressure and working EGT will live in the shroud.
Now running around 22-25psi depending how hard you push it & not too much smoke, it really shifts for a square-port on a K14, better than expected. When we have a proper cooling fan solution (surprisingly it's not really needed it yet, benefits of running the big Xantia rad and FMIC in such a light car I suppose) will see about booking in at a local dyno just out of interest although it feels great so that's good enough. If I had to guess it must be around 180-190bhp currently though, not bad for a 27 year old diesel engine running on vegetable oil and about a tenner's worth of actual mods.
#39: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:15 am ---- Well the project may be taking a turn for further mods after last night, after doing a couple of pulls adjusting the boost the throttle pedal stuck on the silly plastic stop thing & in the moment I shut the engine down. After sorting the pedal and restarting, the turbo suddenly was not at all happy. No bad noises or oil burning but definitely no more boost and can't hear it whistling away at idle any more, not had a proper look yet but I'm calling it as either the shaft sagged due to hot-stopping it or (this one less likely but I hope it's this!) perhaps it cooked the oil in the bearing and it's nipped up in carbonised crap.
either way, it's looking like a TD04 or similar will be happening sooner than later, for now I'll be off out to sweat in the heat shortly and see if I can resurrect the K14 at least for the moment. Oopsies... lol
#40: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 12:28 pm ---- OK here's the damage...
Turbine wheel has exploded, not sure if it went when the throttle stuck or just before since I was surprised the engine didn't rev to the moon as soon as it stuck so maybe it was a blessing in disguise that saved the bottom end from a 7k+ buzzing. Whichever came first, sticky throttle or exploded turbine, the turbo is dead. Long live the turbo...
EDIT-: further to this, we returned to the scene of the crime in the 180 earlier & recovered more chunks of turbine wheel from the ground, a good 50 feet before I let off and realised the throttle was stuck. So, it was indeed a blessing in disguise, the turbo failed just at the end of a pull & in doing so has prevented the engine reaching stratospheric revs when the throttle stuck. Not all bad news then, and a narrow escape for the engine!
#41: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 1:07 pm ---- A decision has been made... After a little looking around at various compressor maps and comparing what people on the 306 forum have been doing, we landed on the GT2056V as a decent fit considering power expectations, cost and to a lesser extent sound.
Anyway we happen to have sat, unused on the drive awaiting tidying up and selling on, a 2006 Volvo S80 D5 and I don't think it'll take an expert to guess just which turbo they happen to run.
Being a Volvo, there's plenty of room behind the engine to work so (be it right or wrong!) decision made. In the interests of a timely repair to the 206 I'm stealing the turbo from the big Swede, to be replaced at a later date. That'll be some sweat but save on delivery time and budget, and looks like it'll fit in the standard location too so not too much fabricating to get it on. will have to work out nozzle actuation as it's vacuum controlled on the 2056 and will need to be boost controlled in this application but I think I can either modify the can to work backwards or use an actuator off something else.
Watch this space...
#42: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:22 pm ---- OK decision reversed! Just about to start ripping into the Volvo and had a last look at ebay, a 2052V with shaft play was on, £40 with 24h delivery & a bearing/seal kit £25 also fast delivery. These should save a bit of sweat and we'll have a running Volvo still haha.
few more bits arrived earlier, warning lights for dip/main beam and oil pressure gauge so will get those and some other bits done while we await the snail...
#43: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 12:08 pm ---- Turbo failure while working on an involved mod? 5 words: break things to make things!
#44: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: ekjdm14, Location: CheshirePosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 10:28 pm ---- Indeed, if it breaks it was meant to be upgraded...
Got a bit carried away the last few days and bought 2 306s in the space of 36 hours so been playing a bit with those, Ph2 5dr DT is MoT'd so will get a little use and Ph3 cabriolet with supposed cooked engine (that was a missing fan switch) needs a few bits for MoT after sitting 2+years but will clean up nicely. Back on the 206 tomorrow afternoon though hopefully, £40 GT2056V has only mild in/out play and not oily but I have a bearing kit here so may as well refresh it before it gets worked into the car.
What's next improvement to need doing, driveshafts or lift the head on boost?
#45: Re: Project dirty deezel 1.1 to XUD9TE :D Author: southwestchap, Location: DevonPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:15 am ---- If you put a VNT on you will need ARP headstuds. Could probably get away with a bit more torque out of the originals, I've done it to see what would happen, but in the end swapped them out one by one. Held around 22PSI of boost and that pulled just shy of 200hp on a GT2256v
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