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Forums › Tuning, Modification & Legal › Project Cars › Andrew's Project


 
 

Andrew's Project
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Andrew
PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:58 pm Up
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Location: Black Country Ay I


So nearly a year since I posted on this thread. Sim told me that my photo bucket pictures have been restored by the admin here so I am really grateful. I still have the car, and whilst progress has been slow earlier this year things are now getting a move on. What started as treating some surface rust in the arches has turned into a bit of a nut and bolt jobby. Currently the subframe is removed and off for shot blast and powdercoating.

Here are some pictures of things going on at the moment:


 


 


 


 


 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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RoweY
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 8:47 pm Up
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What did you use on the rust mate ? my 180's starting to rust in the exact same spot
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Rubyoptics
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:05 pm Up
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Location: Warsaw - Poland


These build threads are a real inspiration. Thank you
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Andrew
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:50 pm Up
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For the rust I used: (all Bilt Hamber)

Deox Gel to kill the rust (multiple applications)
Electrox primer (zinc rich anti corrosion)
Hydrate 80 on any remaining stubborn bits and pitted areas
Electrox again

Going to apply Epoxy mastic and then Dynax UB to basically throw the kitchen sink at it and hope that it buys me some time before it reappears.

The gearbox is currently with my friend at Autocare Dudley for him to swap the 5th gear for one that I sourced from a Citroen AX 4x4 (smallest 5th gear available) to drop the revs at 70mph by around 500rpm. He also has my hub knuckles to remove the wheel bearings so that they are powdercoated before new bearings are fitted.

I have wishbones that have been fitted with Powerflex bushes also! More pictures as and when. Cheers folks.

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:46 am Up
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Dude. Awesome.
 

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Andrew
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:14 pm Up
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Moving along with some updates. So with the engine bay pretty much empty the subframe was sent away to the powdercoaters.

 


As part of my detailing business I sometimes apply ceramic coatings and a job I did this week was as spraying the coating onto the alloy wheels, so this has given me an idea to coat the subframe and all of the little bits before they go back on.

 


Next up I sent my gearbox to the mechanics to change the 5th gear, but as I found out they need to be changed in pairs. Peugeot printed this diagram and said I might have to change the whole line and they don't make the synchro anymore. But I think, looking at it, that just changing the gear that it marries to will work. For anyone interested in MA boxes (lol) the Citroën AX 4x4 was the only model to have a 0,66 sized 5th gear. This gearbox being from a 1.1 needs this change to bring the revs down at 70mph. This hasn't turned out to be a cheap job at all.

 

 


Lastly, and I feel guilty for spending money like this but what with the Corbeau seats, a matching steering wheel had to be done. Custom Control are the people that did they work, taking a standard wheel and doing a reshape and retrim as I wanted it. The idea was that I wanted something that didn't upset the police if I get pulled over, so keeping the airbag was a better idea than a racing wheel.

 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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Sim
PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:43 pm Up
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Literally amazing, I think you're the first one ever who applied ceramic coating to the subframe (how does the 180 differ from the rest BTW?)

Interested as to how the coating will fare on the alloys, as they get abused the most.

And if I ever decide to mod the steering wheel, l'll certainly consider Custom Control. Airbag's the top priority, looks is the 2nd Smile
For OEM clean projects I'd go with something like www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263481970434 but this particular one on eBay looks slightly off-colour Smile

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (lockdown beater, back on Andrew's Toyos!)
GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (rear quarter reweld WIP)
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (endless false positives due to one fault masking another, but all sorted now!)
..couple more Franco/American-made/owned ones, journey depending
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Andrew
PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2018 9:10 am Up
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The 180 subframe was required when I was going to run the XU10 as it is slightly different shaped for how things all fit together, no real upgrade as such.

Yes a ceramic coating on alloys can easily last 2 years!

You're right, can never be too safe (from crashes and the police).

Last night I got some epoxy mastic applied inside the arch.

 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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Edward
PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2018 9:26 pm Up
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Doesn't the 180 subframe have mounts for the exhaust on It?
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio. 2013 Volkswagen CC GT 2.0 TSi. 2013 mercedes B180
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Andrew
PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2018 5:10 pm Up
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Sadly I didn't have it long enough to study it!

A couple more bits from the powdercoaters. The matching 5th gear has been ordered straight to the garage.


 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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Andrew
PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 1:34 pm Up
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More updates. For my 106 rallye inlet I needed a cylinder head with matching port spaces, so I found one on eBay months ago. It's just come back from NWS Motor Services after a full clean, skim and 3 angle valve seats cut. I have sent my front calipers off for refurbishment at BCS Automotive, and I have purchased some Ferodo Ds2500 brake pads from Addaz t/a Chafer Racing Developments. A local company called [name removed] are currently in the process of making an adaptor to enable my FBW throttle body to fit the rallye inlet, complete with reducer pipe so there is no 'step'. My gearbox is back from the 5th gear change too.

 


Fancy steering wheel has been fitted. Very race car much swanky.

 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com

Last edited by Andrew on Sat Jun 22, 2019 4:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Sim
PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 9:07 pm Up
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Location: West Country


Wow loads of developments ongoing! Keep 'em comin'!

I'm at a crossroad of the best underbody sealing practices:
  • How to prevent rust from coming back from within (=remove current spots completely). Not considering acid, but have you blasted your arches with soda/sand/aluminium grains or just trust the convertor?
  • If I choose a self-curing gunk-base sticky solution (like Dinitrol), it won't ever chip, but will be a pain to remove in case a repair work needs carrying out
  • If I choose hardening solution (like Hammerite or the products you used), they most probably will chip due to elements or body flex, unless the combination of layers is carefully picked and applied correctly

So I'm eagerly waiting for when you'll put your rust-proofing to the road test Smile


PS: just noticed a cringe-worthy pun above: trust -> t-rust

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (lockdown beater, back on Andrew's Toyos!)
GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (rear quarter reweld WIP)
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (endless false positives due to one fault masking another, but all sorted now!)
..couple more Franco/American-made/owned ones, journey depending
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Andrew
PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 12:19 am Up
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Posts: 2630
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Hey Sim, where the rust treatment was concerned I used most of Bilt Hamber's products. To start, Deox Gel to remove the rust, reapplying over and over. From there, Electrox primered the whole area, applying Hydrate 80 converter on previously rusted areas, and then Electrox over again. A layer of Epoxy Mastic was applied, and then more recently a layer of Satin Black paint over the top. Rust is never 100% treatable but you can always bide some time.
My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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Andrew
PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2018 8:41 pm Up
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[name removed] have finished their work on the inlet adaptor and just waiting on rubber gaskets to be made. DTA S80 Ecu can run FBW.

 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com

Last edited by Andrew on Sat Jun 22, 2019 4:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Andrew
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:36 pm Up
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Front calipers back from full refurbishment.

 

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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