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Forums › The Car › Solved 206 Problems › pulling left when accelerating


 
 

pulling left when accelerating
Forum IndexSolved 206 Problems
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V9977
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 7:13 pm Up
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sledge wrote:
kandlbarrett wrote:
The amount that the 4 wheel centre corrected is huge! Was that made that bad by hitting something or was it made that bad by the 2 wheel centre?

I went through 2wheel centre on Saturday after replacing wishbones. They said alignment was out, and they adjusted the front spot on.

The Monday after (two days later!) I went to 4wheel centre. No bumps/curbs/stones hit the car in between the two days (mostly stationary anyway)

I thought that 4wheel align is totaly different maths, and to have all 4 aligned spot-on, front was supposed to be moved even more, or smthng

HowlingMadMurdock wrote:
If you bounce the suspension hard on each wing does one side feel stiffer than the other?

Cheers mate, I'll check that straight tomorrow morning

And check the brakes for binding if you can raise it and the hubs for play too. Also, take a good look at the wishbone bushes. They should be brand-new as would be the wishbones themselves.

Actually I wasn't thinking steering rack (though it could theoreticaly be).
'Be worth trying the other standard wheels since you have them for testing purposes.

How does the other 206 feel compared to this?

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

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Sim
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 7:29 pm Up
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Will do binding tests over the weekend, (though today I heard both-sides front brakes squeaking. They used to squeak only on drivers side until this warm morning (remedy from that tried in this thread).
-- just a wild guess: if they're now both squeaking, means they are both binding equally(?)
Last time I rolled the wheel by hand on a jacked up car was a week ago - all smooth and sound, free rolling. Probably need to test brakes for binding only when they are hot after a long journey. But my car pulls to the left already during first hundred yards of the cold morning. So brake binding might as well be ruling itself out.

Wheels were wobbled left to right/up and down by mechanics. So I think the hub plays can be pretty much ruled out (that being loose bearing or lock nut thread sockets)

So you were not thinking that something might be wrong with centre-return mechanism? (affecting further that is)

Other 206 feels way better - it drives straight under acceleration. Given the fact that that 206 is pretty much end-of-life on nearly all other levels.. (PS: not me the driver lol :))

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
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V9977
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:16 am Up
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There is no 'centre-return mechanism' as such.
It results directly and only from the toe & caster, and the specific geometry of your car.

Absolutely check your rear-brake compensator valve (with the spring on it) found near the rear off-side
wheel arch. Make sure it is neither seized or completely loose.

Squeaking does not by any means suggest binding necessarily.
You would do well to try the other wheels since you have them, just for testing purposes.

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V9977
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:50 am Up
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4-wheel alignment on the 206 means you get to know what is happening at the rear as well.
The single available adjustment at the front (toe) is standard and there is no way of 'compensating' for issues at the rear. Yours look super at the rear anyways.

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Sim
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:52 am Up
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That's where my question came from. 2wheel alignment said it's spot-on. 4wheel said rear was fine, but front was 5mm off...
2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
View user's profile
Sim
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 5:15 am Up
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For a laugh I should probably go back to the 2wheel centre and stick the printout into their teeth Smile

Checked the shock absorbers this morning - both feel fine. The drivers side with liquid traces is just a teeny bit harder (by the skin of the teeth, or just my imagination tbh)

Also, alloys were not hot after 12mile stop-and-run trip on the ringroad, so can't blame front brakes for binding it seems. Will check rears though

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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V9977
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 5:19 am Up
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sledge wrote:
For a laugh I should probably go back to the 2wheel centre and stick the printout into their teeth Smile

No, I think they did all the work in good faith and this issue is very very common when it comes to measurement / adjustment like this.

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

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Sim
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 5:30 am Up
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Oh ok, that's the answer I was looking for Embarassed
2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
View user's profile
Sim
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:47 am Up
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Researched the internet more - so many cases! Every time different causes.

It's a dreadful issue - even on this forum, costing money, time, nerves and what not..

Please those of you who had this sorted - share it via this poll: http://poll.fm/48ck9

If you won't find what caused your problem, add it to the "Other" option.

Poll as many times as you had cars/cases sorted in your life.

I will share this message in other forums too, so we have clearer idea what to check first, and leave for last of what has rarely ever occurred.

It is only for 206s, as other cars will be more prone to other causes.

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
View user's profile
HowlingMadMurdock
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 5:33 pm Up
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I would get a couple of mates independently to do the bump test on the shocks and don't tell them which one you think is the harder one. If they both say the same thing without knowing the other 2 results then 3 out of 3 is pretty fair odds the leaking shock will be having some kind of effect as the car won't be balanced evenly under load.

How much of a contributing effect it has is something I wouldn't know but unless the car's destined for the oval Indy 500 circuit I would say the suspension on each side has to work indentically

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Sim
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 8:03 am Up
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I keep reading, in most cases wishbone bushes are the problem..

Now if I'm really unlucky: the new wishbones are both from same factory, but one has bushes, the other has ball joints (some new edition - and their supplier brought two different, hope with best intentions that they won't differ). Car pulls same left - can this be now down to uneven hold-force bushes vs balljoints?

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
View user's profile
V9977
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 8:55 am Up
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sledge wrote:
I keep reading, in most cases wishbone bushes are the problem..

Now if I'm really unlucky: the new wishbones are both from same factory, but one has bushes, the other has ball joints (some new edition - and their supplier brought two different, hope with best intentions that they won't differ). Car pulls same left - can this be now down to uneven hold-force bushes vs balljoints?

I know what you mean I've had this before.
You would have thought that when putting two new wishbones in there it would be identical ones. I doubt very much it makes this problem though, esp. as they're new.

I think it's really worth trying the other set of wheels as it's free.
It won't magicaly fix everything and be dead-on but will be interesting to see what happens.

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

Repair safely - Drive safely
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HowlingMadMurdock
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 10:18 am Up
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Yeah V is right, try the wheels and either prove or eliminate that side of the problem. It sounds like you're getting close to solving this by the process of elimination.
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Sim
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 12:10 pm Up
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Swapped front tires with 14", same problem
2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
View user's profile
HowlingMadMurdock
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 12:40 pm Up
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Posts: 186
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Ashington, Northumberland


I'm no expert but I suspect a difference between shocks here
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