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 Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 2:11 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2716
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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206 GTi 138
My car doesn't have the crank lock hole near the crank pulley, but behind the gear box. I didn't have the tool for this but thought as long as nothing moved it would be fine. I locked the cams fine.
Changed the belt, tried to turn by hand but im getting resistance. Im guessing ive got pistons and valves meeting. As I turn the crank and I meet the resistance, the tensioner pulley pointer jumps and slackens the belt.
Only problem is I don't know how to correct this as I don't know where to set the crankshaft.
Can I set it at TDC, and retime it? Are there any marks on the flywheel to find it, and also where should the crankshaft be set for timing?
Would really appreciate your help on this.
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Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 5:01 pm |
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Joined: Nov 28, 2011
Posts: 411
Trade Rating: +1
Location: sunny stoke
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Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 1:04 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4266
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Palestine
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it's always better to mark the Crankshaft,and the camshaft,this way,u will be sure they line up well,and nothing goes wrong,but always use something to fix the pulley to be on the safe side.
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Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 3:39 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1599
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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The engine in our CC is the same and I pinned both cams and the crank at the pulley end. I didn't need to get to the flywheel, etc.
I just used bolts of the right diameter and it was fine but I treble and quadruple checked everything, plus I had my local Pug specialist take a look as he was recharging my Alfa a/c at the time.
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:55 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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| Timon2210 wrote: |
| it's always better to mark the Crankshaft,and the camshaft,this way,u will be sure they line up well,and nothing goes wrong,but always use something to fix the pulley to be on the safe side. |
Liquid paper was always a favourite as it would show up with a timing light too. Granted this was before the days of locking pins and the pulleys actually had timing marks on them.
Steve, are you sure the resistance isn't just the compression trying to push the piston back down? Take the spark plugs out to make it easier.
You should be able to lock the flywheel using either a drill bit or allen key (think it's about 8mm)
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Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 6:34 am |
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Joined: Jul 14, 2013
Posts: 62
Trade Rating: 0
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If the tensioner pulley is jumping and you are getting slackness in the belt it sounds like one of the shafts is unwilling to turn as the rest do causing this slackness..
You should be able to tell which is jammed(if it is)as it will be the one just before the slackness starts.....or the one that wont turn ey...
Its always possible to get things back to correct timing and i beleive there's a HOW TO on here that can help...good luck man.
If your still stuck have a look on youtube under lost timing marks or similar.
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Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 6:34 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1599
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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Think I used an 8mm bolt .. so that sounds right.
<< just checked my Haynes and it's 8mm for the crank and 6mm for the cams >>
Once you take the crank pulley off you can see the notch in the end and this lines up with a hole in the oil pup at about 10 to .. (if you were looking at a clock face). You can turn the engine over wit the bolt in the end but only turn it clockwise! If you miss, go around again.
Macca1411 is right when he suggests taking out the plugs. The compression is likely to push the crank past the pinning point otherwise.
We lost a good write-up when the server crashed last time ... I used that to do mine alongside my Haynes.
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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